There seems to be one in most people’s flocks. The evil-minded escape artist. You know the bird. The one that you think is safely resting in their cage but is secretly biding their time waiting for the chance to unlatch their door when you aren’t looking. That’s nothing though. If they get bored with a simple escape, they’ll go and unlatch their flockmate’s doors too.
I’ve talked before about my escape artist Blue and Gold Macaw. Padlock picking, bra eating, sneaker destroying monster that he is, Fid is actually not the biggest brat in my flock. That crown rests firmly on the head of one of my galahs. Merlin has lived up to having a magician’s name. I’ve never quite been able to dye away the grey hairs that he gave me the day I came home to find he had removed an entire aviary wall. Apparently Merlin was a screwdriver in a past life. Undoing the nuts and bolts that hold his aviary together – it’s a game he never tires of. Merlin likes his cages (and everyone else’s) in pieces.
Merlin and Fid aren’t alone in their antics either. My female galah Nemo loves door latches, my eclectus Pepi is an expert at sliding out the grill at the base of a cage and climbing out through the bottom. The lorikeets? Their preferred method of escape is to fly at your face if you’re ever stupid enough to open their door. The lorikeets have also discovered the joy of popping welds on cage bars so that they can squeeze out between the bars.
Popping welds is a fun one and in theory would be solved by buying a cage with thicker bars. Cages with thicker bars have wider bar spacing and that’s not safe because the lorikeets adore jamming their heads in small gaps. They get stuck – they get injured or die. So I find myself reinforcing the lorikeet cage bars with an assortment of brackets that I have to tighten almost daily. Grills are padlocked in place. Doors are chained and padlocked shut. It’s a lot of work to keep my flock from wreaking havoc on the world. I do it anyway. They get their supervised out of cage time but if I’m not there to supervise… they stay locked out of reach of the cats and dogs and away from anything toxic that they might chew on.
There is one escape route that all birds seem to know and it often can’t be fixed by a simple padlock. The food bowl door. They watch you open and close it when you change their water every day. They KNOW how it works. You may think you have a little feathered angel who never escapes… I’ve fallen for that act myself. It’s not worth thinking they never will.
Many cages come with a food bowl door that is held in place by a swinging circle or a swinging arrow-shaped latch. You can tighten the screw on the latch so it doesn’t swing so easily. However, my galah Merlin is not the only reincarnated screwdriver out there. Most birds will get past that latch very easily. Some even find it easier if the screw is tighter because the screw may actually be pushed to hold the latch up, as opposed to a loose screw that makes the latch swing closed with the aid of gravity. Unfortunately these doors don’t allow for a padlock.
All is not lost though. In most cases, this can be solved with a couple of clips and some chain. (I’ve put up a picture of how I do it.) The trick seems to be to string the chain diagonally across the food bowl door. My eclectus tells me that placing the chain vertically is just giving a bird an invitation to slide the chain across towards the hinge (out of the way) so that he can go ahead and unlatch the door anyway. If you clip the chain diagonally but attach it to vertical bars, it’s impossible to slide the chain out of the way.
Some people use D-links (used to hang most parrot toys) instead of clips but my entire flock has learned to undo them. I use a spring-loaded (self-closing) clip that springs back if they try to undo it. My macaw can apparently undo those too, so for him I use padlocks instead of clips, but even those aren’t really macaw proof. (Is anything?) If you have a bird like Fid, the best you can hope for is to slow him down long enough to keep him safe until you can get back to him.
No matter what you do, sometimes you will have to go out to buy groceries and pay your bills and you need to know your bird is safe when you do. If anyone else has any ideas on dealing with escape artists – let us know in the comments section below. Meanwhile, apparently I need a new hiding place to keep my hair ties… (Seriously what makes a bird obsessed with finding and stealing hair ties?!??)
Mel Vincent works as an animal rehabilitator out of Australia.
I have a 25 yo Timneh AfricanGrey female,Lexie. She is a rescue, and was locked up and neglected by first owners,as well as taught how to cook meth and other drugs and made addicted to petroleum products. Also fed garbage to make her sick. To survive she has learned many tricks. She lubes up the bars. She can easily squeeze out of 1/2 in spaces. I got her King s cage with 5/8””. To my dismay, the bars are not welded at insertion! She chewed them loose and pops them. Can they be welded? Are there cages with welded 5/8 in bars? Next I lined the inside with chicken wire and used j-clips and special pliers, c-clips with applier, steel rope with crimping tool. She dismantles j-clips at the seems of chicken wire and squeezes between it and cage, then pops the bars. I have been systematically clipping chicken wire to bars to obliterate free space. Also consider putting more rigid fencing on outside and securing it bars with c- clips on outside. She has gotten into digital safe many times to get keys to locks I had to install on my fridge and pantry because she messes with our and cat food and cooks cabinet glue, Tough Stuff foam, silicone caulk and paints the mixture on wooden surfaces that she likes to chew and rub in her feathers, as well as put in our food. She then washes dishes she used or runs them through dishwasher. Nobody believes me and I was told parrots lack “ executive ability” to plan and execute a thought out goal. Nonsense! She can use fine tools: scalpel blade, syringes, needles to inject this + borax into sealed food containers. Some mental issue from being made sick. Does not want to stop drugs , somehow bypasses surveillance cameras. So, I want to look into welding, add a layer of secured metal outside fence, cut off power to appliances at night. Cannot do anything else until I can lock her in a cage. Then get her off drugs, and other destructive behaviors.
I ended up with a bungie cord from the door around to the side of the cage. Frannie (my African Grey) will probably figure out how to get that loose or bite through it eventually. I tried to get a locksmith out to make a new key for the cage, but they don’t seem to be able to replicate it. Anybody know how I can get a new key made?
I have same door and solved the problem by drilling a hole in food door and hanging a brass padlock on it. This stopped my Macaw from escaping via food doors.
My wife’s aunt had a timneh African Grey that did the same thing for years. Get used to it. They enjoy it.
It’s hard to read this story without laughing so hard you can’t make out the text! My expensive, stainless steel, escape-proof cage is missing half of it’s nuts and bolts. I have to unplug everything near his cage for fear of him chewing on electrical cords. The things he prefers to leave alone are those expensive toys in his cage. Last evening he asked me “wanna go to bed?” I talk to him all the time and mostly, he just quietly listens until he sees me on an important phone call and then he starts talking up a storm. That’s why we love these characters.
I use a velcro strip on top and on the bottom. This way when I push them together the door is closed and can not be seen by my cockatoo. When it doesn’t move when he pushes on it, he gave up trying to go through the door
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