Are there only 10 things that should be avoided when handling and training your parrot? 

Of course not!  The list of things not to do with your parrot definitely extends past the 10 things we will be covering in this article, but we feel these 10 things are pretty important and should be at the top of the list for sure! So although this is not an all inclusive list, we hope that you will consider these as a guide to avoiding some of the most common mistakes made with parrots. 

Many will seem obvious and very outdated practices, but we assure you that we hear about most of these being thought of as how people should interact with a bird still, or we hear those incredibly sad stories when people email in or comment on one of our YouTube videos that they didn't even realize that the habits they had with their bird ended up leading to serious injuries or even death. 

Following this list as a set of rules will not only help you have a better relationship with your bird but can also be a matter of literal life and death for your bird! 

1.) Never force your bird to step up

Permission based vs force.

Have you ever noticed how many birds say the words "step up"? Many times (not always) this can come from a history of the bird being given a command to "step up". This was the acceptable norm for so long that the physical act of getting a bird to step up started with putting your hand to the birds chest, applying pressure and giving a command to step up. Many bird owners that you might run across on forums or Facebook pages will argue that it works and you need to show the bird "who is boss"! "Don't let them bluff" is also a common phrase you will hear from someone insisting that this is how it needs to be done. 

Well, forcing step ups can work because of something called learned helplessness. That is a term used to describe a being that gives in to something unpleasant because it becomes easier than fighting it anymore. 

There is a better way!

Permission based training is just what it sounds like. It is training that allows space for the animal to have a voice, to be able to say no. In permission based training the responsibility lies with the trainer to ask, "Why did the bird say no?" and "What can I change to get a yes from the bird next time I ask?". 

The way I describe the difference of a forced step up vs a permission based step up to a client is with an analogy about asking someone to dance. If you are sitting on the side of a dance floor and someone approaches you that wants to dance with you, will you be happy if that person just grabs your hand and pulls you onto the dance floor? I would assume for most the answer would be no. Instead, most would expect and appreciate being asked while the person is saying "would you like to dance?". 

In the following picture you will see that this trainer is asking her bird "would you like to step up?" and the bird seems very willing and happy to do just that. This habit alone can take your relationship with your bird to a whole new level. When your bird understands that they have choice and control in their interactions with you, there will be trust built in your bird that you are a safe person.  

For a deeper dive into permission based training check out our Family Friendly Parrot Formula 1 Course that is all about the foundations and concepts of permission based training. 

2.) Never use water as punishment 

Why would anyone do this? 

Again we are diving into a subject that for many years was a normal approach that parrot owners used to resolve bad behaviors they were unhappy with from their parrot. And again, this worked because of learned helplessness. 

This entire approach breaks my heart to think about!  Not only because birds were being forced into submission, many times for behaviors that are normal for parrots like vocalizing, but also it is taking something that a parrot should naturally enjoy, water, and turning it into a tool for punishment. 

The importance of water for a parrot's health (and ours!) 

Parrots in the wild all seem to relish in a good shower/bath in a gentle rainfall or small body of water. It is not only enjoyable for them but a necessity for survival! Water is essential for the health of a parrot's feathers that are needed for flight and protection from the elements. Without healthy plumage, a parrot does not have the ability to fly to  search for food and find a mate, and eventually breed. 

In captivity and within the walls of our homes, controlling the dander and powder from a  parrot's feathers helps with not only their respiratory health but also for the humans they live with! It is much easier to do this if they have a good relationship with water and enjoy showering or bathing. This is going to become impossible to if water is being used as a punishment as well. 

For more information on how to encourage your bird to bathe, check out this playlist on YouTube! Teaching Birds To Bathe

3.) Never hit your bird 

Seems like a no brainer...

Well duh! This one seems so obvious! Of course you shouldn't hit a bird! I am sure most reading this would immediately think, "they are so fragile, why would anyone hit a bird?!".  I wish I could tell you that it never happens, but it does. We have gotten more than a few emails through the years where a bird owner writes in either confessing that they messed up and hit their own bird and now want to try and win that bird's trust back, or they are telling us of someone in their life that hit a bird. 

This counts too!

When we use the word hit in the context of punishment, we think of something done in anger when out of control and that can result in physical harm. We are not just talking about something that looks dangerous and angry though. I will argue that even a little thump on the beak should be included under the description of hitting! 

I cringe every time I hear someone give the advice of teaching a bird "no bite" by thumping them on the beak. This is not a kind or respectful action to take towards any bird of any size, and has no place in permission based training. I can not imagine where a parrot would consent to being thumped on the beak, therefore it is not within the rules of permission based training. 

Keep in mind the largest of all macaws, the hyacinth, weighs around a third of the average weight of a newborn human baby. Even though parrot beaks can be intimidating, the better approach to not being bit is not by overpowering a bird but by building mutual trust. 

If you are struggling with biting from a member of your flock a great starting point is our BirdTricks Training Course - Beginner Level which address diet, training and hormones, which if out of sync can all play a part in having a bird that bites.

4.) Never take your bird outside flying without professional training 

Outdoor Freeflight Course 

If you are familiar with our YouTube channel, you have probably seen the stories of all the people in this photo at one time or another. They are all graduates of our Outdoor Freeflight Course! Each and every one of the people in this picture represents a different, unique journey through this course! 

Freeflight training is not a one size fits all. Every bird and its owner are unique, and they will all have their own strengths and challenges that come up during the course. This is what makes our freeflight program so special, it is tailored towards everyone as individuals with a ton of hands on instructions and guidance from our trainers! 

Other options for outdoor fun

I think it is also important to mention that freeflight is not the only way to get your bird outside for some sunshine and enrichment. You can approach this through outdoor aviaries, harness training, or backpacks that are especially designed for parrots. What you will not find on the list is clipping your bird as a way to allow for outdoor exposure. I am going to go over the pros and cons of each option listed: 

• Outdoor Aviaries  There is no replacing the health benefits of sunshine for parrots! An outdoor aviary is a great way to give your parrot a place to enjoy the outdoors safely. There can be a significant cost to this option depending on how large you go. My advice here is that you get what you pay for and to remember to go with a reputable product that can withstand the elements over time. Here is a link to a website we have that is a free resource for information, ideas and inspiration for outdoor enclosures. https://birdtrickscages.com/
• Harness Training  This can be a bit challenging to train for some birds, and there are some risks involved with using a harness outside. It is important to have a high quality harness that you continually inspect for any areas that may start to fail from a parrot chewing on it. All harnesses come with leashes and I always recommend using a a carabiner to attach one end to yourself in case there is ever an accident that could cause the leash to drop from your hand. The younger the bird, the easier this is to condition a bird to. It's not impossible for an older bird, but it is what I would consider a more challenging, advanced behavior to train later in life. 
• Backpacks or other carriers  This can be a great option to spend some quality time outside with your bird! Backpacks offer the most flexibility for mobile adventures as they are easy to strap on your back and hit the trails! They don't allow as much UV light through as an open crate would, so if you find yourself wanting to get your bird out for some sun and you don't have an aviary outdoors, an open crate is perfect for some sunshine out on the porch with you while you enjoy a cup of coffee or beverage of choice. Always offer a little shade along with the sun so your bird has the option of either. 

Not included on the list for good reason! 

Clipping is NEVER a good option for outdoor activities with a parrot. Clipping does not guarantee that your bird won't catch a little breeze and end up in the sky. However, what it does guarantee is that if this happens, it will be MORE difficult to keep your bird safe and to get it back. 

When a clipped bird takes flight, it is more likely to either end up on the ground (sometimes quite far from where the flight began) or to end up high in a tree. If it lands on the ground and is clipped, it will have a very hard time taking off again from the ground and will be very vulnerable to predators (domestic cats are on that list too). If it ends up in a tree, it will be difficult to have success with a bird to descend back down to you if they don't have recall and flight experience. Descending flights are a more difficult skill for a bird to learn than ascending is! 

5.) Never drop your hand out from under your bird

Reasons why a handler would try this...

There are two reasons that I know of that people have used this method with parrots. The first (and the most common) is to avoid or discourage a bite. The second is people using it as a method to try and encourage flight from a bird that is reluctant or unskilled in flight. Neither are good practices to have and will shatter trust with a parrot very quickly. They can become hand shy because they learn that hands can't be trusted - that they are unpredictable and unsteady. This could lead to biting or other undesirable behaviors when asking a bird to engage with you. 

What to do instead? 

In the first scenario of trying to prevent or discourage a bite, if you find yourself dropping your hand away, then you have missed the chance to stay within permission based methods to prevent a bite ever being on the mind of your parrot to begin with. 

It is important to slow down and even consider hands off training methods if your bird is offering bites as a way to communicate their displeasure. Again as I mentioned earlier, our Family Friendly Parrot Formula 1 Course is a great resource for learning the foundations of permission based training. For more information on hand offs training here is a great video from our YouTube channel called A Hands Off Approach to Taming a Parrot (Levels of Target Training)

In regard to dropping your hand out from under a bird to induce a flight, this is never a good idea either. Again it breaks trust in not only your hands but also in flight itself. Dave always tells flight students - "build the confidence first and the skills will follow". 

6.) Never cook with your bird out

We often encourage owners to have their new parrots out when making our Seasonal Feeding System so they can be exposed to trying the veggies to encourage a good start for diet conversion on to fresh food. We do not, however, ever recommend having them out if there are is anything cooking on the stove. Hot pots, pans or burners and birds do not mix! Even a clipped bird can spook off a shoulder and land on the stovetop. 

Smoke from the kitchen, especially from a pan that is teflon coated, is deadly for birds. We don't recommend using teflon coated pans at all even if your bird is in another room of the house. But any smoke at all, even if it is just burning food that is being cooked in safe cookware, can expose your bird to smoke inhalation (more on that in the next section!). 

7.) Never smoke around your bird 

Respiratory sensitivity in birds. 

I am sure that most bird owners have heard about the saying "the canary in the mine". For anyone who has not, up until 1986 coal miners used canaries as detectors of toxic gasses in coal mines. A canary would be brought down into the mine in a small cage so that if odorless but toxic gasses were present, the canary would fall off the perch sick, dying or even dead which served as a warning for the humans to exit the mine before it was too late for them too. Birds respiratory systems are much more sensitive and delicate than ours, so they will succumb much quicker to toxins than we do.   

Image by Alfi Mahini from Pixabay

Is all smoking bad? 

Yes! Smoking tobacco cigarettes or cannabis around birds is unsafe for them to be exposed to and should always be avoided. If you must smoke these products please do so outside away from your parrots. Even if they are not in the same room, the smoke will make its way through the ventilation system and over time will harm your bird.

It is also highly recommended that once you come back inside that you wash your hands and change your clothing that your bird will have access to as the residue left behind from smoking still poses a threat to their health. 

What about vaping? 

When vaping first became available to the mainstream, there was a lot of misinformation about this being the safer alternative to cigarettes. While this delivery does contain less nicotine, it comes at a price of other harmful ingredients that can still be life threatening for your bird. 

The following is an excerpt pulled from a blog post from the American Heart Association titled Is Vaping Better Than Smoking?

In addition to nicotine, e-cigarette vapor includes potentially harmful substances such as diacetyl (a chemical linked to a serious lung disease), cancer-causing chemicals, volatile organic compounds and heavy metals such as nickel, tin, and lead. Users breathe in these toxic contaminants, and non-users nearby risk secondhand exposure. 

Feathers can tell you a lot. 

I have personally seen birds up close whose owners vaped with either e-cigerettes, or THC (compound in marijuana) and the feather condition of these birds show this exposure. Many times the tips of the feathers will have a black or grey appearance, and there is an overall dullness and shabby condition to the feathers. This is the damage being done that we can see, imagine what is going on inside the bird as it is grooming those feathers and breathing in the vapors?! 

8.) Never have your bird out when your ceiling fans are on

But my bird doesn't fly...

When a bird takes flight, it is natural for them to fly upwards. Ascending flights are actually much easier for birds than descending flights are. Even a clipped bird can be in danger of suddenly getting an unsuspected lift, especially when startled, and can be hit by those fan blades! Please don't count on clipping as a full proof way to keep your bird safe. 

Image by Eak K. from Pixabay

Other safer options. 

I have ceiling fans in my home where the blades are all all contained within a cage so my birds cannot reach the blades if they were to happen to be on when they are out. I still don't typically have them on, but if someone was to forget, this is a safer option for sure. I don't have the link to the exact ones I own since I purchased them many years ago, but they are similar to these ones - Enclosed Ceiling Fan. Another option would be a Bladeless Ceiling Fan. 

Floor fans that are either enclosed or bladeless also make safer options that an open fan would. Dyson fans are one of my favorite for this reason. Expensive but reliable and safe. 

9.) Never give your bird bells or mirrors 

Hormones, aggression and physical harm! 

Metals and mirrors both can be big triggers for hormonal behavior and aggression! Bells in particular can even cause physical harm! Many bells are not made with parrot safe metals, especially the clacker inside. Those often are found to contain metals such as zinc, iron and copper, which are all toxic to parrots. 

The hard material of metal (this can also apply to hard plastic) can also be a surface where birds will grab a hold of the bell or other item and regurgitate the same as if they were locking beaks with a mate. 

Bells can also cause injury through entrapment of toes, beaks and tongues, and parrots have also been known to swallow the clacker after detaching it. This is not only dangerous because of possible metal toxicity, but can also becomes a foreign body that will most likely need surgical intervention with a qualified avian veterinarian. 

The reflective surfaces of bells and mirrors can lead to both hormonal and aggressive behaviors. Either your bird will mate bond with the bird in the reflections of either of these objects, which can deteriorate their need to interact with the outside world including you, or they can feel threatened by the invading bird they see in the sanctuary of their cage leading to a constant obsession of trying to evict the unwelcome guest.  

Why we advocate for all natural materials. 

Our mission here at BirdTricks, when it comes to cage enrichment, is to encourage owners to lean into the natural behaviors of parrots by providing them with lots of destructible and safe materials.

In the wild parrots do not come across metal bells, mirrors or plastic. Instead, we want to support the natural abilities of foraging and destruction that parrots are built to do. A toy that is made of unnatural materials will last longer but could lead to more harm than good. A toy that a parrot can tear into and destroy builds confidence, works their brains, and spends energy that will keep them more stable in captivity. 

 

 

10.) Never treat your bird like a domesticated animal 

Domesticated vs wild 

The process of domesticating an animal from its wild ancestors can take thousands of years. Although there was a famous Russian study starting in 1959 that concluded that the silver fox achieved partial domestication in about 60-80 years, even then those foxes were not as domesticated as the common household dog. This study is an exception to the rule, not the norm, as most animals take much longer than a century to truly domesticate. 

For domestication to happen there has to be selective breeding over generations that change the genetics of an animal to be more adapted to captivity - parrots are not even close to this happening yet. We still have parrots that are being brought into the pet trade after being caught in the wild to this day! 

There are other criteria that must also be met in addition to selective breeding, and a few of them you could argue that parrots are starting to meet, such as a flexible diet (they can survive on a varied diet), and a willingness to breed in captivity. But some of the other criteria outlined for domestication are far from met in parrots, such as a docile disposition (may seem to ring true for some individuals but stop handling that bird for any period of time and see how fast that changes!), and the criteria of having strong nerves and unlikely to panic does not often apply to parrots as they are a prey animal that often goes into flight or fight mode if threatened or startled. Some are better desensitized through training than others, but again it does not take much for that to change quickly. Being "tame" is not the same as being domesticated, because tame is much more temporary if not kept up.  

All over the world there are flocks of wild parrots that are not in their original natural habitats because they stemmed from pet parrots being lost or purposefully released. These flocks can quickly grow and flourish (even in a foreign environment from their wild cousins) because they still have their wild instincts guiding them into being resourceful enough to survive without the aid of humans.  

Why do we need to respect our parrots' wild sides? 

Parrots are a "what is in it for me?" species! They typically do not do things to please us or out of loyalty to us. They are doing things to either gain pleasure, avoid pain and to survive. Many parrots would sell us off to the highest bidder for a bag of nuts! Some might do it for just one nut! LOL! 

All kidding aside, when we stay within the bounds of permission based training while respecting our parrots as wild animals, we have a much better chance of gaining and maintaining a relationship with them that allows us to enjoy them as pets while still advocating for their needs as wild animals. 

It is always a good practice to ask yourself, if this was a tiger, would I be doing what I am doing in this moment or not? 

Fallout that can occur when we treat them as domesticated. 

Many of the behavior problems that parrots have such as plucking, self mutilation, screaming, excessive hormonal behavior, aggression, and the list goes on... can stem from us treating them as domesticated animals. 

By allowing over bonding to humans, cuddling and touching inappropriate places (stick to head only), not encouraging and nurturing their wild side through skills such as foraging and flight, and expecting them to behave in our homes (that are filled with unsafe items) for extended periods of time can all lead to the above issues and put them in danger and at risk for unhealthy vices. 

Many will argue that parrots do not belong in cages and I will say I actually agree! I wish (even as much as I love my own parrots) that they had never been brought out of the wild for the purpose of being a pet. But the reality is they are here and it is our responsibility to provide them with a safe and enriching environment that nurtures their instincts while also providing respectful interactions with us with intention and respect. 

For more information and resources on how to maintain your parrots health and provide and the most enriching life possible please visit our website for courses, products and free materials at https://birdtricksstore.com/. Also visit our YouTube channel for an almost endless supply of videos about the care and training of parrots. Don't forget to subscribe so you are always in the know! 

What are things YOU never do with your bird? Comment below! 

Article by Kim Russell, Parrot Behavior and Diet Consultant - Need one on one support with your feathered friend? Book with Kim here!